Travel Notes · Food
What to eat in Georgia: 15 dishes to try
Georgian cooking is built on walnuts, fresh herbs, cheese, pomegranate and slow-cooked meat. Here is what to order and how to eat it.
Breads and cheese
Khachapuri Imeruli is the everyday round cheese bread. Megruli has a second layer of cheese on top. Adjaruli is the boat-shaped one with egg yolk and butter: stir them into the cheese and tear off the crust to dip. Lobiani is filled with seasoned beans and is a good cheaper lunch. Mchadi is a dense cornbread served with beans and cheese.
Dumplings and grills
Khinkali are juicy dumplings filled with spiced meat, or with mushrooms or potato for vegetarians. They are ordered by the piece; five per person is a good start. Mtsvadi is pork or veal grilled over vine wood, served with raw onion and tkemali, a sour plum sauce.
Walnut dishes and salads
Pkhali are little balls of spinach, beetroot or leek pounded with walnuts and herbs. Badrijani nigvzit are fried aubergine rolls with walnut paste. The simple Georgian salad of tomato and cucumber with walnut dressing is often the best thing on the table in summer.
Stews and soups
Chakhokhbili is chicken stewed with tomatoes and herbs. Chakapuli is lamb with tarragon and white wine, made in spring. Ojakhuri is a family pan of pork and potatoes. Kharcho is a rich beef and walnut soup, spiciest in Samegrelo. Lobio is bean stew served in a clay pot.
From the regions
In Samegrelo try elarji, cornmeal stretched with sulguni cheese, and gebzhalia, cheese rolls in a minty yoghurt sauce. In Svaneti order kubdari, bread stuffed with spiced meat, and tashmijabi, mashed potato with cheese. In Adjara, the khachapuri is the star.
Sweets and drinks
Churchkhela are walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice. Tklapi is a thin sheet of dried fruit. Gozinaki are walnuts in honey for New Year. To drink: Borjomi or Nabeghlavi mineral water, tarragon lemonade, and of course wine.
How to order
Dishes are shared. Order a few salads and cold starters first, then hot dishes as you go. Portions are generous, and leftovers can be packed to take away: ask for it "tsaghebit" (to go).